“You like spicy?” Jimmy Lau asked from behind the counter at Shuko, the new restaurant just below Union Square where he and his partner, Nick Kim, prepare an elevated and memorable species of Japanese food. Before I could answer, he handed me a spicy tuna roll that would casually knock over my ideas about spicy tuna rolls, and spice, and tuna.
Pickled red Thai chiles sat on top of the roll, chopped to bits and ready for action. The tuna underneath was soft sinew cut from the belly of a bluefin. It was grilled until the fat ran, until it soaked through the rice in its crisp nori wrapper and dripped out the bottom of the roll and into my palm…. continue reading at New York Times